Saturday, 4 April 2015

Another no-wimps-allowed walk, just a kilometer, (1.25km) but straight up and straight down! From Romaggiore to Corniglia

We start the trail in the furthest hamlet, Romaggiore, delightful hole -in-the- wall shops, pretty as a picture, and stone walled mysterious narrow alley ways.  The air is so fresh the colours pop out - this picture just doesn't show the vibrancy of being here, it's so hard to capture in a photo.


Another no-wimps-allowed trail... We take the train from Monterosso- much of the cliff face of the Cinque Terre  is bolted back by steel nets after the disastrous mud slides after the flash floods in 2011.


Each of the Cinque Terre hamlets has a tunnel leading from the train station.  There are usually buskers playing in the tunnels. (Often with their dogs)  During the war the tunnels were used to sleep in during air raids.


We arrive in Romaggiore, which is a disappointment from the station, but as you walk out of the tunnel there is a huge mural depicting the villagers working together after the 2011 mud slide...amazing how within two months the village was operational again, thanks to world wide help.


The little shops are different from the other 4 hamlets.  We see anchovies advertised, and a variety of deep fried fish served in paper cones.


Pretty as a picture hole in the wall shops..and narrow stone walled alleys 


We walk out of Romaggiore and towards the church on top of the hill.  


The church is dedicated to St John the Baptist, the patron saint of Genoa. A reminder that the republic of  Genoa used to dominate this area.


I continue to find it amaIng that these small villages had such ostentatious insides, rich with marble and statues and gilded frescoes.



Vegetables growing on about 2 Metres of terrace before the cliff face  plunges towards the sea.


The colours are vibrant in the crisp clean air.


An old Castello on the way



We then take a path down to the beginning of the one kilometre trail to Manarola. A pretty arched bridge begins the trail.


Walking to get to the bridge, beginning the trail


Looking up nervously at the trail...up, up, up, perhaps it's not that bad!


Can you see the people winding up the mountain?  Doesn't look so bad hey?


Take a look at the stairs to get up- all uneven...


It's quite a challenge!  At times I can feel my heart thumping so loudly it breaks the silence around...


But the views are wonderful...


Hot and happy to be close to the top! Rob never sweats when we walk at home, but even he was sweating.


Looking back where we've just come from.


And down we go, not sure which is worse, up or down..





Aha, maybe that's Manarola..


On the far side of the hill we  admire the wooden carvings of Mareo Andreoli.  He promised his father he would replace the old wooden cross on his family's vineyard.  He then kept on adding different religious scenes, the Nativity, the crucifixion, the Resurrenction, and religious people year after year.  He put a light behind each one, and on religious holidays and from early December the hillside is lit up with the scenes.  He's been doing this for over 10 years, and is over 80 now...





 The view from trattoria dal Billy  where we stop for a bite to eat and a glass of ice cold white wine,with delicious home made pasta,  ...there is the rest of the village of Manarola below us, a tumble of buildings leaning against each other like drunken sailors.









Our no-wimps-allowed walk from Monterosso to Levanto

The trail from Monterosso is a rugged-and-wild, no-wimps-allowed trail.  It should take about 3 and a half hours we are told. Huh! We set out with water, apples and focaccia.  Here we're at the tip of the peninsula , it feels like the highest point on the way from Monterosso to Levanto.  Rob won't sit this side of the rock, and although I am normally the one who is most afraid of heights, it is exhilarating to be so high.  There is a cool breeze.  The Italians have names for the winds.  Today's is "tramontana" a cool refreshing northerly breeze bringing sunny weather and calm seas.



We have begun the day with our usual fabulous breakfast prepared by Carola, and served on the terrace above our room.  Delicious fruits which taste of the freshness we are surrounded by.  Whole wheat croissants, coffee, cheeses and cold meats...


And up we go....with marvelous views of Monterossa and the coast line to the other five villages.



Many of The pine trees have fallen, maybe because of the floods of 2011 and the mudslides.


And higher, till we feel on top of the world..


The paths are narrow but not sheer here.  There's a beautiful breeze which keeps us cool.


And up...


We take it slow, enjoying the herby Cape like plants, the bird song, and the vistas..


The same rock as the first picture where we stop to eat our forcaccio- it's like pillow bread, sometimes with only salt, but quite delicious with local olives or tomatoes.



This is a deserted house used as a look out by German soldiers during the war.  You can see the island of Elba from here.  (Or maybe Corsica?)


The ruins of San Antonio Monastery.


And then we round the Punta Mesca and the paths are still narrow but death defying drops remind to watch each step.  


We are getting closer to Levanto... But it's still a long way, and we are tired...it's now more than 3 hours we have been walking...


Resting....



As we get closer to Levanto, the noise of a helicopter shocks the peace of the countryside... We meet other hikers who say that it's carrying concrete to repair someone's home on the cliff side.


It's thirsty work this hike, but I am fortified by the thought of gelato at the other end...


The wild flowers delight...




We begin to pass farms and buildings as we wind down towards Levanto.


A guesthouse which has delightful mosaics.


A snake mosaic weaves along the wall of the guesthouse.


And a totem pole mosaic outside the entrance.


Aaa, the blues of the Ligurian sea...


Levanto is a disappointment, a large town and we catch the train back to Monterosso after a good 4 hour walk...